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Taking the ferry to Bilbao 

We decided to take the plunge and take the 38 hour ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao. Partly to save time and we had heard mixed reviews of driving through the Pyrenees in October. The ferry was more expensive than the conventional route to northern France as we paid £420 for a one way ticket (including a cabin) with Brittany Ferries. This decision enable us to save time, have a comfortable crossing and dive straight into the adventure. We watched pods of dolphins from the deck which was a magical start to our trip. 

Exploring Bilbao

I highly recommend staying in Kobetamendi Campsite, a 20 minute drive from the ferry port whilst overlooking the city of Bilbao. We paid £37 for 2 nights and it had a toilet on site. I never thought I’d be so grateful of a toilet and a sink until we started travelling in Vanny. On reflection it’s on the pricey end of the scale but for ease and accessibility to the city it’s perfect start to your break. We got off of the ferry at 08:00 and were exploring the city by 10:00. 

Bilbao is part of the Basque Country and is situated in a narrow valley along the Nervión River. At the start of the journey we were nervous about our budget (approx £1,000 each per month) and ate out as little as possible. We were taken back by the reasonably priced food and drink in comparison to the UK. 

First on our itinerary was to visit the Guggenheim Museum which exceeded expectation. While we enjoyed the art instillations, I would say if you are on a budget and needed to save some pennies the outside of the building is architecturally amazing and a great place to people watch. 

Tip: They do offer a young persons ticket if you are below 25, unlucky Harry.

Now, onto ordering pintxos. This is stressful at first but it get’s easier after a few attempts and a couple of vinos. Pintxos are typically bought when ordering a drink and are a delicious mouthful of bread accompanied with either a meat or fish, vegetarian and vegan options are available. You can tell a good spot for pintxos by the amount of small napkins littering the floor, as once finished, locals will discard of their dirty napkin on the floor. It’s hard not to resist ordering a plate full of different carb loaded goodness but the traditional way is to have one alongside your beverage. I can’t recommend going to Café Iruña enough. Not only for the delicious pintxos, but also the beautiful interior. There is a seated restaurant as well as a smaller space for a quick pintxos and drink. From here we headed to the old quarter where there are small taverns on every corner that are super cheap and tasty. 

Food Lover’s Paradise: San Sebastián

Our time in Bilbao was over and time to head to the foodie capital of the Basque Country, San Sebastián, with the most Michelin stared restaurants per capita anywhere in the world. Because we were on a budget and with no idea how to spend it we didn’t indulge enough on reflection.

On route we stopped 45 minutes east of Bilbao at Gaztelugatxe, as seen on Game of Thrones. The weather was pretty awful with the wind and the rain but it added to the atmosphere and charm. You can walk across to the church by the steps connecting it with the mainland. 

(Tip: It is always free but in high season you have to book prior to visiting.)

From here we drove half an hour to Guernica which is rich in history and culture from the Spanish Civil War. Rain still pouring we visited the peace museum which explained the horrors that took place in the town. We then went on to see the famous Anti War Memorial by Picasso. 

In under an hour we arrived in San Sebastián. There’s only really one proper park up in this city which we found via Park4Night. It was pretty cheap at €5 a night but without any facilities. As a foodie I had a full day of eating lined up. From the site you can cycle or walk into the city centre within 30 minutes. Recommend La Vĩna for Basque cheesecake and POCO LOCO for an ice cream, I still think of these two places daily. We stayed here for two nights and spent our time exploring the city, watching surfers and drinking vino tinto. If like us you do not have a shower in your camper there are public showers on the beach for €3 and we drove onto Biarritz no longer being able to smell one another.  

Biarritz: The Finale Of The Coastal Road Trip

Biarritz is only forty five minutes on from San Sebastián and worth the extra miles along the coast. We stayed at Aire Camping-Car Park de Biarritz for €16 a night and it wasn’t great. The pitches weren’t flat and it didn’t feel secure but it had a public toilet and we could cycle to the centre. We hope to be able to surf by the end of our trip but if you’re a surfer it is a haven for the sport. There are lovely bars with views of the ocean where you can watch the surfers and the sunset. You can stroll all the way into the centre from the campsite and I highly recommend going to Casa Juan Pedro for dinner. They serve fresh seafood overlooking the harbour and after a short walk to you can get the bus back. If you’ve only got a small amount of time I would recommend going to the indoor market, Halles de Biarritz, where you can choose from freshly baked goods, cheeses, seafood, fruit and veg and more. 

Final Thoughts: Why The Basque Country?

If like us you’re from outside of the EU with only 90 days and starting in October I’d thoroughly recommend taking the ferry to Northern Spain. It lets you enjoy the hidden treasures whilst soaking the last bit of sunshine with very little tourists. From here we had time to take two weeks to complete the Camino Primitivo. Stay tuned for our next blog post with tips on completing the trek at the start of winter. Obviously we did it with a camper but it could be a cheap and exciting get away with flights, car rental and accommodation.